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My stove top grates were filthy...
... sooooo, I bought new ones. First I removed the old stove top grates. Then I removed the new grates from the box and put them on the stove top..... tah dah! A brand new looking stove. Yaaay!
0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven. 1) removed oven door (no tools required) 2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out) 3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer) 4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver 5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter. 6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job. 7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine. 8) Reverse steps above to install.
The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.
Gas smell in Broiler and Stove when all controls to off
IF YOU DONT FEEL COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH NATURAL GAS APPLIANCES PLEASE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN. TURN OFF GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE. IF YOU CANNOT SHUT OFF THE GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN!!!!!!
Open bottom broiler drawer. Remove trays. Remove broiler drawer. Remove bolts holding heat sheild from back of oven (mine only had 2 bolt/screws holding 2 heat shields covering safty valve). Remove Heat shield. Unscrew 3/8" gas line feeding into safty valve on right. Remove 3 bolt/screws hold safety valve on back of oven. Remove Safty valve from oven. Unscrew Mounting Nut from old valve and place on new valve. Remount the new safty valve. Re-attach 3/8" gas line feeding into saftly valve. Replace heat sheild. Replace broiler drawer. Replace racks on broiler drawer. close Stove. Turn gas back on. Make sure you dont smell gas (I would wait at least 15 minutes before turning stove on to make sure there is no gas leak).
my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it. I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.
Burners were burning the pans and flames coming out at all different angles of the burner
The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing the burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.
After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.
First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.
I could not change times on the analog clock, and when using pliers, the knob broke.
The replacement was a digital clock instead of analog. The directions were a little confusing, but adequate for the change. We removed the old clock, and followed the dirctions for replacing it. We made three tries to get the wires correctly connected and on the third try, it worked fine. However, I had to return the three knobs since the digital had push buttons. It fits into the space perfectly and we are very happy with it.
The end cap broke which made it so that the handle to the oven would not stay on.
First had to unscrew two screws on the inside of the oven door. with a star wrench. Then I had to use the nutdriver to remove the screws on each end cap. Then I just had to slip the encap into the side piece and put back the two screws (this was done on each side. Just before you attach one end, you insert the door handle and then screw the screws back in. The rescrew the two screws to the inside of the oven and you are done. The hardest part is having the star wrench which you must have
scissors and opened bag. determined that all three knobs were identical. aligned slots on each knob with flanges on each shaft. snapped each knob into place. Did a happy dance of empowerment around the kitchen. ( knobs had been broken for at least 5 years). used timer to avoid burning christmas cookies. Have a Merry one!!!
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.
