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Oven wouldn't hold temp - over/under
Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!
the drip bowls were a mess- rusty and beyond cleaning
I removed the old drip pans, cleaned the range top, washed and installed the new drip pans and put the old pans, box and packing materials in the trash. In only 12 minutes my range top looked like new and the mess was picked up. Now, if I could just get the rest of the kitchen looking that good that fast!
Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.
one of the burners was not working, the terminal block that the burner pluges into was burnt
I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks
Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.
Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
First shut off power to the range in the electrical breaker box (its the 220 breaker) as marked. Remove the oven door ( open part way and lift up) the door will come off. Remove the 2 screws that the element is attached to the back of the oven wall. Pull element out part way and disconnect the 2 wires. Take out element. The new element had different connections so I cut off the clips stripped the wires and attached to the element connection . The element had connections that this was possible. Push wires back into oven wall and install the new element with the 2 screws that were removed. You could also put on clips to the 2 wires that attach to the element if so desired. (Eye hole clips.)
Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.
The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires. Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.
I loosened two screws that held the baking element to the stove and pulled out. Then, with a screwdriver , I took the old wires off and replaced them onto the new Baking Element and reassembled.
It was a very easy task and while I was at it,I replaced the Drip Bowl pans on the top of the stove with Chrome ones.
I ordered the parts on a Tuesday and, to my surprise, I received them on Thursday, and the cost was about half of what it would have cost me elsewhere (to include GE Parts Warehouse)
I highly recommend partselect to all of you that need inexpensive repairs.