NT19L8A CA55A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Due to some deformity of the gasket, it didn't seal all the way around. The instructions suggested using a heat light to warm the gasket with the door open. That didn't work too well so I closed the door and used a heat gun lightly in the areas it didn't seal. That worked great to soften the gasket so the magnet in the gasket could pull it gasket tight to the refrigerator. I let it cool with the door closed and it now seals perfectly.

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

unplugged the power and removed the cardboard back Unplugged the part and power from the side of the compressor Plugged the power and new part back in to the side of the compressor and replaced the clamp Plugged in the power cord to the wall outlet and the refrigerator started to hum Job done Thanks

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

took old socket out, ordered replacement part, dual socket no longer available. Turn off power to appliance, attach new single light socket, screw light socket and light socket holder back into place. Turned on power and it worked. No instructions included in packet, attached wrong first time, blew fuse, attached socket a different way, and it worked.

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.