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Turn table did not consistently turn during microwave oven operation.
Using fingers, the old turntable roller guide was pulled up off the motor shaft. The plastic roller guide shaft coupler was found to be broken, allowing the motor shaft to spin without turning the roller guide. The hole in the floor of the oven was inspected, and no broken pieces were found which could interfere with the new roller guide. The new roller guide was then gently pressed down over the motor shaft. Very easy.
Microwave light, turntable, and heat were not working
Remove from cabinetry, take cover off and had a very difficult time removing the plastic form that has the switched in. Replace the lowest of all the switches, and then again very difficult time getting the plastic form back in. Some of the plastic even broke during the process but not any that could prevent it from working as it did before. I had ordered a fuse, 2 packs of 2 switches as there are 3 switches but only had to use 1 to get it working again. Tested after switch install, put the cover back on and reinstalled in the cabinet.
Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.
Outside of cabinet got hot & food inside of microwave did not get cooked
Replaced the diode (aka wire-vltge) in the HV circuit after removing cabinet cover using both the secure torx screw drvr & phillips head screw drvr. The hardest part of the job was finding the secure torx nut drvr tool on the internet & purchasing same.
The inside latch for the microwave door broke, preventing the push button from working and the door from opening.
The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.
All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott
My wife was pushing a few buttons with her knuckle (hands were full)and the microwave just turned off. Just like we had blown a breaker. First I unpluged it. Then I removed the phillips screws of the front panel, and found and removed the ceramic fuse. 3 days later I received the new fuse in the mail, and put it in. I plugged the microwave back in and it works great.
1. Remove the trim frame off of the front of the cabinet (4 Phillips screws). At this point, take glass plate and turntable frame out of unit. 2. Slightly lift the unit off the cabinet frame (which is attached to the cabinet) so the feet on the microwave allow the unit to clear the frame and then remove microwave from the cabinet. 3. Once slightly removed from the cabinet, unplug the unit before completely removing it from cabinet. 4. Take 2 Phillips screws out of the side panels. 5. Take about 6-7 T20 Star Pin screws out of the back of the panel. (This may require you to purchase this special tip if you don't have it in your toolbox). 6. Slide the microwave cabinet toward the rear of the unit (the front portion clips into the frame ... don't try prying it off because you'll damage the unit). 7. Completely remove the microwave cabinet housing. 8. Be careful not to damage or catch any internal wiring inside the unit while the cover is off. 9. Turn unit on it's back and remove 4-5 Phillips screws holding the bottom cover in place. Remove bottom cover. 10. Now notice that the turntable motor is completely exposed. 11. Remove the wiring harness from the motor (notice which connection clip has the black wire). 12. Remove the one Phillips screw holding the motor to the frame. 13. Clean around the area in case food spills may have gotten into the area. 14. Insert new motor, put Phillips screw back in and attach power connection. 15. From this point on, just reverse steps to re-assemble microwave and put back in cabinet. 16. Test new turntable motor. 17. Enjoy the smile from your wife because she can now use the microwave!
The door was not engaging the micro switches properly no doubt from 10+ years of wear. The upper switch removed fairly easily but take care not to tweak the plastic brace too much or it will snap. The lower one was the tricky one. After much examination I noticed that the trick to remove it was underneath the brace. Take a butter knife (no joke) and insert it just under the old micro switch and gently press down twisting the micro switch every so slightly til it releases. The replacements snap back in with no trouble. The microwave is working much better now, though not perfect.
Motor quit working but light and timer still worked.
Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.