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The outside oven door glass panel broke
After carefully removing the broken glass and cleaning the surfaces, I unscrewed the three screws holding the bottom metal panel using a Philips head screw driver. After replacing the existing double sided tape strips the replacement glass panel was evenly slid upwardly into place. The glass panel was held temporarily in place until the bottom metal bracket was slid upwardly into place and fastened into place by tightening the three Phillips head screws.
Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!
I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.
I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.
I looked it over and decided what i needed to have for parts .I ordered the new door handle from part select.com and within a reasonable time i received the part in the mail ...I lifted the door out of its place took the screws out put the handle in and buttoned it up ...The replacement part was as good as a new one would be...It took a matter of less than 30 minutes total... thanks for your service...
unplugged oven from wall. Removed screws holding the inside element cover. Then removed the screws holding the element in place. disconnected wire from element. plug in new element and reinstall all screws and covers in reverse order. If wire to element pull throug back of oven, remove rear cover to expose all electrial connections. With new element screwed in place you can plug it in from the back. Reinstall rear cover. Plug in oven and test.
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Purchased new bake element from PartsSelect. Very easy to install, unplug range, remove 6 screws, slide element out and unplug end, remove old element. Reverse procedure to install new element. My range was about 6 years old and in excellent condition, was considering buying a new range. Found PartsSelect on-line and ordered new element. Their website is very easy to use and find correct parts. Saved lots of dollars, this PartsSelect website and service is great.
Oven not heating pass 125, heating element not working
First I removed the screw behind the stove that hides the electrical wires. Pull off the two wires connecting the bake element with pliers. Unscrew the two screws holding down the floor pan which covers the baking element and pull out the floor pan. Here you will see the baking element, it is attached with a few screws. Remove the baking element and attach the new the same way. We could not believe how easy this repair was to do. Not to mention all the money we saved on a repair man. Thank you partselect.com, I'm glad I researched this on the net.
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all. An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
