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oven wouldn't heat. Lower element only .
First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall (would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.
First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten times of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm. Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch. Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
Before I give procedure steps, please note the following observations that I had. a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker. b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place). c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire. d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.
The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned. 1)I unplugged gas range power cord. 2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line. 3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer. 4)Verified no voltages present 5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover 6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position. 7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires. 8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer. 9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place. 10)Replaced front glass and knobs. 11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts). 12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent. 13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip. 14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord. 15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.) 16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero. 18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
Removed the oven door and oven racks. Turned off the power to the range/oven. Unscrewed the bottom element and place the new element in its place. Screwed element in and replaced the oven door and racks. Turned the power back on and turned the oven on. It works great.
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place new switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.
Burnner would go to high setting no matter what the setting was.
Shut off power at breaker box , pull stove away from wall , remove Phillips screws from back of range pull knob off of switch . Look to see how switch is oriented remove 2 screws that hold switch in . Remove one set of wires at a time and place on new switch in same location . Put back together in reverse order .
Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.
