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Broken door latch
Followed video instructions using flat scraper & pliers (easy).Tried to remove "SPARE" latch on other side of door. Even removed door myself (Easy).Tried for (45) minutes without success. Ordered part @ 11:30 pm. Replaced door easily by myself by leaving bottom screw for each hinge in place & replaced broken latch. Received new latch in (5) days. Removed broken latch without tools & replaced new latch in (15) seconds. Need help from any "Ladies" who can remove second latch so it is available for next replacement. This "Engineer" was too lazy to remove the screws around the door because he was going to "Follow the Video". Overall it was an "Easy Fix". Keep the 'Videos"coming.
Raised the front of top panel with the putty knife and the front panel was unscrewed as the video showed. The drum slid out after the belt was released.
My machine had 4 rollers, which was not shown in the schematics. So I replaced the back, cleaned the front ones and works great for now. Plan to replace the front later.
Removing the tri rings is much easier if cut w wire cutters. Otherwise waist lots of time to get them off. Just buy new ones.
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
I watched your instruction video, which by the way, 1. was not for my model dryer and 2. was totally opposite of what you showed. I was able to remove the back and replace it from there versus going in from the front and removing the drum, etc etc
Simply removed back cover on dryer and the idler pulley wheel and arm was right there and only had one screw to remove after relieving tension on belt by removing spring. Very simple
Took back panel of dryer off completely disconnected the drive belt to drum of dryer took off old idler pulley reinstall the new pulley and belt works like a brand new dryer
Went to Kenmore website, got parts diagram, watched You Tube videos on dryer repair for this model, ordered parts. When parts arrived (in 4 days, great job!), re-watched You Tube videos, installed parts, dryer works great. Took longer than industry standards because I had to suction out/vacuum a great deal of lint/hair. as I went along.
Lint has been bypassing the lint filter and building up in the fan (and duct)
I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.
1`) broken blower motor drive belt,2) blower moter drive belt pulley loosened & seperated from shaft
1) Unplugged unit & used the 5 in 1 tool to disengage top panel clips from top of front panel & tilted top panel up & out of the way, . 2) Disconnected electrical connection @ upper right of front panel, Used drill & 5/16" socket & adapter to remove 2 upper front panel screws on backside of panel & removed panel. 3) Removed 4 screws from lint screen duct, unplugged elect. con.@ the right & removed lint screen & duct from dryer bulkhead.. 4) Loosened 2 top screws & removed 2 bottom screws from bulkhead & lifted bulkhead up & out & set aside. 5) Slid drum belt off the back of the drum & removed the drum 6) Ceaned the blower moter drive shaft threads & threads inside the shaft pulley. Used a file to clean up any burrs on shaft pulley, coated treads of pulley & shaft with red lock tite thread dressing & re-instaled pulley back onto shaft with ajustable pliers while holding blower fan blades steady from inside the blower motor housing. with other hand. note: (pulley is left handed thread) 7) Looped new belt onto drive motor pulley then worked it back onto blower moter pulley with one hand while turning the blades of the blower from inside the blower housing with other hand until it was back in place & ribs on belt were seated in the mating ribs of the pulley. 8) Put everything back in reverse order with the exception of removing the back panel to reinstall the drum belt onto the drive motor shaft pulley and tensioner @ bottom left in back of the dryer.
Hope this instructional is able to help some one else & good luck with your projects!