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Door switch was broken
I typed in on my brouser Repair Kitchen Aid Dryer door switch. And on You Tube up came several videos showing me how to ewmove the switch and install the new one.
The hardest part of the job was not instaling the switch but the dryer Vent hose from the back of the dryer after I puled it away from the wall, it disconnected and the I had to Pull the Washer out which was right next to it so I could put the vent hose back to the dyer. I has to disconnect the Hot/cold water line pull the washer out connect the dyer hose reconnect the cold /hot water lines and yada yada yada
i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.
Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.
Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.
I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful
removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.
I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.
Unplugged washer,removed the two screws by the lint trap,moved the top foward lifted the top (it'shinged in the back )the switch is right inside the door top right hand corner removed the two screws that hold the switch in place used a flatblade screwdriver to seperate the connections pulled off the old installed the new switch put every thing back together worked as though it wes never broken
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Would not shut off when door opened, interior light would not come on.
Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the wiring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
Repaired the 4 drum support rollers, 1 idler assembly, 9 tri rings, and 1 washer that came with the kit, however, the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit did not fit my dryer. After several attempts to troubleshoot the problem, I realized that the belt was too small. I contacted PartSelect customer service and advised that the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit was too small and I need to purchase a belt (P/N WP8547157) that fits my dryer. Adam was very courteous and helpful and very apologetic for the belt not being the right one. PartSelect refunded my purchase for the Parts Kit and I purchased the correct multi rib dryer belt. I received the new belt expeditiously and was able to finalize the repairs. Thank you PartSelect for your support and cooperation. Recommend: Advise customers that the belt in the kit may not fit the recommended dryer.
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
