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broken plastic vent
I am not mechanical so if I can do it so can. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST!There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer itself remove these and take out the brackets that are held by these two bolts, I used a socket, lift up and peek in to the front top you will see two screws that hold the other side of the top of the dryer lower the back side and move to the front of the dryer now that the back bolts are removed. Take a large screwdriver and place a dishrag or handkerchief so the flat side is inserted where these screws are located{preventing scratches}pry upward it will seperate the top of the dryer from the front of the dryer move over to the next screw and repeat now the top is loose and can be slid backwards until there is room for you to see down in front of the dryer, notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side, take the time to write down there color and in what order they are located as you will have to remove these now inside the front panel from the top about a third of the way are two bolts, one on the left and one on the right use the socket to remove these now pull the front panel to you and lift up, the front panel will now come off set aside. remove the three screws that attach the plastic vent from inside the dryer,pull out plastic vent, vacuum out dust and lint install new plastic vent install the three screws from inside the dryer drum and reverse the process you are finished!
Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:
Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws each);
Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful here because of the two wires to be removed for door open off switch;
Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring keeper;
Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the new wheel roller on shaft;
Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.
Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.
Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.
first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity. to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.
Broken plastic screen (on frame that holds wire lint screen)
Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.
Dryer making a lot of noise and clothes were getting very hot
Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the front holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!
Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.
Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws)undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.
1-Unplugged drier 2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws 3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws 4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to. 5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws ***** at this point the drum is exposed ***** 6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum! 7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers. 8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller. 9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws 10- reinstall new roller support 11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light! 12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards! 13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part! 14-repeat for the other drum roller. **** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard! **** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it ***** 15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires. 16-re-plug the drier and test
Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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The dryer started making terrible noises.
First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arrived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.
Lint Filter Air Dust Assembly broke inside the dryer.
I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.
Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins aligning it to the top panel.
Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.
New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.
Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.