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Washer was off balanced when in spin cycle.
The repair went fairly smooth following the directions that came with the damper pad kit from partselect.com. It only took as long as it did because the glue has to dry for the pads and it takes a few minutes to scrape off the old pads and glue. this can definitely be done by a first time do it yourselfer. Pliers are needed to remove a spring hose clamp in the back of the washer drum. Two 4x4's are needed to rest the washer drum on in order to gain access to the pads (in directions provided).
Leaking water through middle of tub down over transmission
Exactly as shown in your provided video from You Tube. What a life saver. The description of needed tools, and the fact that the main nuts securing the tub were REVERSE thread! I would not have suspected that and probably would still be beating on them, tightening them rather than loosening them!It is worth the price to purchase the spanner wrench (correct style), used to remove those tub nuts. Thanks for the great service and the video. Well done!
The repair went well.I had to replace the seal under the tub.The video was the key to my success,I did not have a spanner wrench,I don't think it would have helped anyway,The nut was corroded I had to drill holes and chisel it apart after that it was no problem.
I did an internet search for a leaking washer and came across this web site.I looked under my washer model and it showed the repair parts plus it has a video of a repairman doing the job.The video was none the less the best help I could ever imagine.Tools needed and how to do the job a step at a time.The parts came to my door in two days via regular shipping method.I also purchased the special SPANNER WRENCH on eBay for about 10 bucks and it showed up the same day as my parts.The job took me about a hour and now my washer works like it should with no leaks.Thanks to Parts Select I highly recommend this site and their my new lifesaver. Ciao, Steve M
After watching the repair on the video, I was confident that I could complete this job. The only tool I did not have was the special wrench for the retaining nut. I would recommend changing out the Bearing along with the seal. Due to the proximity of the seal, the bearing will most likely fail about the same time. The inner and outer tubs in my machine needed a thorough cleaning unlike the pre-cleaned demonstration washer in the video. A cheap plastic putty knife was great tool to scrape off the 14 years of detergent and lime sludge on the tubs. Allow yourself additional time to get everything clean as you disassemble the washer. The only snag I ran into was removing the corroded aluminum retaining nut. A cold chisel and hammer cut it off without much problem and a new nut was supplied with the kit. My old Maytag washer is now running like a champ and with no leaks.
I followed the directions given me from parts select. I used the instructional YouTube videos. Both gave me the courage to do this project myself. The 35 year old wash machine works perfect !
Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.
Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.
I watched the online video that was supplied when I ordered the part and it made all the difference in a successful repair. Thank you for having such a complete solution!
I took the front off by removing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. I leaned the washer backwards and blocked the front up about 6 - 8 inches. Next I loosened the three screws that hold the pump on. Then remove the belt. Now it is time to get the hoses off by taking the clamps loose. Wiggle the hose and pull them off. You need a small bowel and towels to collect the water in the hoses. The final step is to take out the three screws that you already loosened that hold the pump on. The pump can now be lifted up and removed. Replace the pump with the new one and reverse the procedure.
Water was running on the floor everytime we washed a load of laundry.
I watched a utube video showing how to do the job. It was simple considering I am not mechanically gifted. The whole job took about 20 minutes. The hardest part of the job was moving the dryer out of the way first.
I removed 2 Philips head screws from bottom of front cover and removed cover. Tilted washer back and installed a 6' wooden block under washer. removed 3 hex head screws from pump base using my flex shaft nut driver and a 5/16" socket. Removed the 2 hose clamps from pump and lifted pump out. Pump appeared to be ok but checking by turning the pulley I found the impeller did not turn, shaft key must be sheared. The new pump came the next day at 2:00 PM and it was an exact replacement. Installed and up and running in about 15 min. Working fine.
I googled "washer leaking water" and found some videos which then lead to PartSelect. I had a bit if difficulty finding my parts, but with help of the PartSelect customer service I was able to get what I needed along with some more instructions. I ended up replacing all the hoses, the drain pump and the siphon break. My washer is back in use and my floor is dry. PartSelect is now in my Favorites List.
The video was very usefull> however could not find the (specialty tool) as seen on You tube the nut was so corroded that it would not of helped anyway. Used punch and hammer.Make sure you back out the locking set screw all the way out other wise it may strip threads. Overall the repair went well. But only lasted 2 weeks and started to leak again. May be due to worn bearing? Not sure Getting new washer instead of repairing this one. I would also order the bearing too if the washer has been leaking for any legth of time,Good luck.
I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.
