Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Unplug machine from electrical outlet. All screws can be removed with a 1/4" socket, either with a socket wrench or nut driver. Top panel - remove three screws on back, slide panel back an inch or so, and lift off. The control panel must be carefully pulled off by using a screwdriver to pry it away, and then placed on top of machine. Be careful not to disconnect or damage any attached wires. Pull out the detergent dispense drawer, press the retainer on the left rear of dispenser drawer, and pull it out and set it aside. One small torx screw must removed from the dispenser housing. Bottom front panel - remove three screws to take it off. This exposes the screws on the front panel. The front panel of machine must be removed as well. This is the most tedious part of the job, as the door seal must be disconnected from the panel. Remove the wire and spring retainer around the door that holds seal in place. The spring portion of the retainer is on the bottom of the opening. Pry it off with a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the rubber seal. Do not remove it, simply push it into the washer opening. Remove the screws from the front panel - two on top, and two bottom. It has some wires on the right side, and to avoid damaging them, support the panel with a stool and prop it up against the machine. You can now access the hose on the rear bottom of the dispenser. Using a pliers, squeeze the retainer and pull the hose off the dispense. The other end is pressed into the tub - simply pull it out. I recommend cleaning the edges of hole to assure a good seal when installing the replacement. To install the replacement hose, press it into the tub, making sure to get the channel in the hose properly inserted in order to make a solid seal. Attach the other end to the dispenser with the retainer. Reassemble by reversing the order described above.
My husband removed the bottom panel of the washer and removed the old pump with two screws, then removed the water hose coming into the pump and unplugged the electrical push in type plug from the side of the pump. Simple reversed the process to instal the new one and replaced the front panel. Simple really...far more so than calling a repair man.
Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.
The rubber boot assembly is not the same configuration as the original equipment.
I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.
1. Turn of hot and cold water valves. Disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the unit back panel 2. Use a nut driver to unscrew the top screws from the unit back panel 3. Remove the top cover 4. The valve is located at the top left corner 5. Use a torx driver to unscrew the screw off the valve unit 6. Unclamp and remove the hose from the valve unit 7. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve unit 8. Remove the faulty valve unit 9. Connect the electrical plugs to the new valve unit 10. Insert the hose and clamp into the new valve unit 11. Place the new valve unit to the top left corner of the washer and secure it with the torx screw 12. Re-cover the top cover and secure it with screws 13. Reconnect the hot and cold water hoses 14. Re-open the hot and cold water valves. 15. Turn on washer and verify there is no leak
Multiple water leaks, all rubber parts are chewed up from a mouse 1/
1/4 inch nutdriver, took the top and the front panel of and renew all rubber parts / hoses. It looks less than 1 hours. All parts like factory quality, everything fits perfect.
It wouldn't drain anymore so I started looking on the internet for a solution. I came upon this website and found the part I needed. It was easy to install. It fixed the problem I had with the washer.
I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.
Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.
First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.