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Refrigerator and freezer running to warm.
I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.
Super easy. I watch the short video and did the same. (Removal) I started by emptying the two drawers of produce. Then pulled the draws out and set them aside. Then simply lifted the cover and pulled it straight out. (New Installation) Insert the new cover to the back of the frig and dropped it in place and replace the two draws into the hanging tracks and push them in. Done
the refrig was in storage for about a year, the freezer door warped
removed freezer door and installed the new one. This was a pretty easy thing to do, although putting the old handle on the new door was a challenge. No knowing that there is a plastic piece holding the top of the handle i broke the that piece and had to order another one. Mean while the freezer was making alot of frost inside, so that had to be cleaned after the new part came.
Evaporator was freezing up and was running non stop
I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.
I cut wires from bad thermostat and removed it . Stripped wires and crimped connectors on new thermostat and wires from old thermostat. Used heat gun to seal sleeves over connectors. Very helpful video from this site Thanks, you will be my go to parts supplier from now on!!!!!!!!!!!!
Freezer worked, refrigerator didn't. Ice build up on coils.
Unplugged refrigerator. Emptied freezer and removed ice maker and cover, need to unplug fan. Defrosted coils with hot water. Cut wires to thermostat as close to it ad possible to leave extra wire in case of an error. Stripped wire in new thermostat and put in shrink plastic then the wire crimp connector joining both light blue wires making sure wires were in before crimping them. Repeated with other dark blue wire. After used the heat gun to shrink the protective white tubing. The only thing i found not satisfying was tge tubing. It was too wide and too small. When i shrunk it did not cover the whole connector and was loose. I had to use a glue gun to cover both ends of each wire connector. Hope this helps other users.
Ordered part easily with modal number ( they tell you where to find it). Received quickly and snapped paper in. They also had a video instruction. Will definitely use again!
A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.
Door switch was no longer making my light go on when door opened
I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.
The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.
Figuring out how to remove the cracked door rack was the most complication I had. Once I figured out how to push it up it was easy to remove and then replace it with the new part by just placing it over the nobs and pushing down. No tools needed, just hands.
Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch. Now what?
