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glides were wore out and pully was gone.
Replaced glides and assy idler pulley cleaned all parts fron dust and debree, vaciumed heating eliment to remove all excess lint and wool to make sure I did'nt have a fire in the lower unit. Job was'nt all that hard just have to watch what you're doing.
1.Unplug unit (gas model, did not shut off) 2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts 3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door) 4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect 5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside 6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts 7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light) 8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley 9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place 10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum 11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly. 12. Vacuum entire unit 13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.
Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity. This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!
Propped the machine up in the front, removed the front panel, the door assembly, and the front drum support. Use a Sharpie to mark wire positions. This will help during re-assembly. To get the drum out, you first have to remove the belt from the motor pulley. Drum slides right out. You will need snap-ring pliers to remove the pulley from the idler arm. I also replaced the drive belt because it was cheap, and always a good idea to replace it when you are this far into the machine if it is a few years old. Re-assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. An easy fix for the average do-it-yourself person.
The dryer made a random grinding/rubbing noise during operation.
After removing the lower access panel, I observed the drum and belt and saw it turning freely. The support rollers in the back turned freely and were in good condition as well. At odd intervals the unit made a humming or grinding noise, and i decided to check the blower wheel (the other rotating part in the system). I found that the central hub of the wheel (which is made of a nylon like plastic) had sheared off from the wheel itself. I ordered a new part and started to remove the old wheel. **NOTE** many of the stories I read described how this part would have a reverse thread, it did not and that cost me an extra 30 minutes to figure out (the new part had arrows showing the correct direction to put on and remove - the original didn't). Once everything was cleaned and reassembled, I started the dryer again, but got no heat. I had previously replaced the heating element, so I thought my wiring was wrong. That wasn't the problem, but a hint from this site about checking the incoming wiring was the solution, my ground wire had come off the terminal in the back of the dryer and I wasn't getting the volatge across the element that it required. With the ground wire back in place, everything worked fine.
Very loud intermittent squealing noise while dryer was running
Unlike the other stories I read (and the video posted on the site), my unit had a lower maintenance panel on the front face which required quite a different disassembly. Once I took off the lower panel, there were screws at the bottom of the top panel. Once removed, the top front panel came out and exposed the necessary interior components. In order to get the drum out, I took out the screws holding the front of the top on and wiggled the drum out. From there I removed the belt and offending idler lever, put in the new ones and hooked the spring back up. Reverse procedure to assemble and the problem is completely gone. I even found and removed an unexpected hair band from the front skid plate. Pretty doable if you're willing to spend the time.
Terminal Block was cracked and dryer was not receiving enough voltage, causing the heating element not to heat. Here were the steps I took to fix the problem: 1. Turn off breaker to dryer from 240v outlet 2. Unplug dryer from 240v wall outlet. 3. On outside, rear of dryer, remove cover plate and the clamp that the power cord goes through with nut driver or phillips screwdriver and take picture or write down how the power cord wires go to the terminal block. 4. Use nut driver or phillips screwdriver to remove the power cord wires from terminal block and ground wire from dryer body. 5. On top front of dryer, use large slotted screwdriver or some other tool to push in on the two clips in order to lift the cover up on dryer. 6. Take picture or write down how wires are attached to terminal block. 7. Remove wires from terminal block with nut driver or phillips screwdriver. 8. Use nut driver to remove terminal block from washer and install the new terminal block. 9. Reinstall wires to new terminal block. 10. Close dryer cover. 11. Reinstall clamp onto power cord wires and reinstall wires to new terminal block and ground wire to washer body then put cover plate back on. 12. Plug in dryer then turn on breaker. 13. Start dryer to see if it heats now.
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
The belt tensioner was the problem and the belt had very fine cracks in it so I ordered four parts: the belt tensioner, belt and the two drum rollers. I had to work to clean the fan and the LARGE dust bunnies. I'm writing this to encourage others to consider installing new duct work, mine was becoming a fire hazard. At a minimum clean all the duct work. Your dryer will work so much better. Thank you for your printable help!??
took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blower and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
