KEYW977BWH0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Step 1: Unplug the unit, then remove the lint screen and then remove the two screws beneath the lint screen cover. Step 2: At the rear of the dryer there is a small protective metal panel near the upper part of the dryer - remove this first; then at the front of the unit, insert a plastic pry tool between the front edge of the top and the front panel of the dryer and gently pry the top loose. Step 3: Lift the dryer top up and either remove it entirely or let it rest on the back edge and a wall for support. Step 4: On the inside of each side panel near the top front, locate the two screws holding the sides of the dryer to the front panel and remove them. Step 5: Carefully slide the front panel up so that the panel detaches from two metal clips holding the front panel onto the side panels. The drum will likely drop down slightly at this point since it is no longer being supported at the front. Step 6: On the front panel there is a wire that connects the front panel door switch. I left that intact because it was too difficult to remove without risk of breaking it and instead simply set the front panel to the side of the dryer - but if possible remove disconnect the wire and then set the front panel aside. Step 7: Remove the drum by pulling it out, inspect the back felt seal for wear and also the plastic split ring bearings at the front end. When you remove the drum belt the tensioner pulley underneath the drum will likely fall over, but this is to be expected because without the belt and drum providing tension, the piece only fits loosely in a slot at the bottom of the dryer. Step 8: Inspect the drum rollers, motor, and other parts for wear, then vacuum out the inevitable lint and dust inside the unit. Step 9: At this point I also decided to inspect and clean out the lint chute at the back of the unit, so I removed the protective back cover and removed the screws holding the lint chute in place. I then cleaned out the lint that builds up over time inside the chute and checked the two foam lint chute seals at the back of the unit - these needed replacing so I removed the old deteriorated foam and vacuumed off the back of the unit and then adhered the new seals to the back of the dryer. Step 10: Take the new multi-rib belt and drape it around the drum with the ribbed side against the drum - you will likely see a mark around the drum where the old belt was positioned, so use that as a guide. Step 11: Since one of the split ring bearings on my unit was worn, I replaced both at this time by simply pressing the plastic tabs out of the slots at the front of the drum, removed each half of the ring, and reinstalled the new parts - they only correctly fit one way so that the plastic edge lines up cleanly with the front edge of the drum. Step 12: With the felt drum seal toward the back replace the drum - I used a small box to support the drum upon while I reinstalled the drum - this will make it much easier to manipulate the belt around the tensioner and motor. At this point I reached underneath the drum and reinstalled the tensioner. by positioning it in the two small slots near at the bottom panel that are near the front of the dryer motor. Then take the belt and pull it through the tensioner and around the motor pulley at the front of the unit. You will likely have to push up slightly on the drum and tensioner to allow the belt to be pulled through the tensioner and around the motor pulley. Step 13: Rotate the drum slowly by hand at least one full revolution and check to see that the felt seal at the back is not pinched and that the belt does not fall off the pulley. Step 14: I removed the box supporting the bottom of the drum, then took the front panel and fit the front of the drum against it so that the split ring bearing matched up to the front panel. Step 15: The drum will still be somewhat loose and that allowed me to carefully lift the front panel up and then slide it down back onto the two metal clips that hold the front panel to the side panels. Step 16: Reinstall the two screws that also hold the front panel to the side panels. And if you also removed the wire connection to the dryer door, reattach that too. Step 17: If you removed the lint chute, reinstall it from the back while the lid is still off so that it is easier to slide it into position. Step 18: Reattach the top of the unit by seating it against the top of the frame (of course if you disconnected wires, reattach those too) and reinstalling the two screws underneath the lint screen cover. Step 19: Reattach the rear panel cover and small protective metal panel. Step 20: Reattach the flex-hose to the lint exhaust.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

I replaced the front seal and bearing, split ring bearing and rear seal. It was technically pretty easy. The thing to do is watch the videos provided by PartsSelect AND go to Youtube and watch a couple of others. Once you see several guys do the job and look over your own machine, it all becomes obvious. Some tips: Work cleanly, you will be dealing with dryer dust and shredded gasket material. Use a vacuum and put down newspaper or a drop cloth. While you have it apart, clean the inside of the machine, and check the other moving parts (eg, rear bearing and drive belt). The glue for the rear drum seal is runny and dries fast so work reasonably quickly. I held the seal on with clothes pins and binder clips and glued about a foot of seal at a time. Everything else goes on easily. They dryer is like a new machine-good for another 30 years.

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

Did not hear the "clicking noise of the door switch when the dryer door was shut. First I unplugged the dryer from the socket. Next I removed the two screws that hold the lint filter receptacle. Next I pried the top of the dryer open with a screwdriver. Next I removed the two screws that held the switch actuator spring in place located just inside the top of the door. Then I removed the old spring from the door switch and replaced with the new. Not too difficult once the problem was diagnosed.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplug Cord of course.

I removed 2 screws holding the lint trap housing in place and pulled the top forward and up. I then lifted the front panel up and wiggled it a little and it came free and I put it aside. I got on the floor and removed the belt from the motor by lifting the tension pulley releasing the tension and pulling the belt sideways. The drum easily lifted out at this point and I placed it on some newspaper and towels I had placed on the floor in advance.

I then peeled of all the belt that would come off at this point and then took some paper towels and wet them with acetone and worked just few inches at a time so the acetone would not evaporate before I got the glue off. This went much quicker and easier than I dared hope. From there it was just a matter of applying an even bead of glue all around and quickly starting in one spot and putting on the new belt making sure it was all the way back and pulling it tight as it is only just long enough so you don't want to get to the end and wind up short and your glue already set.

I then gathered my $2.37 tip from the bottom of the dryer and vacuumed the lint that was there while I let the glue set some more.

Putting the drum back on was a tad tricky but not bad. Just concentrate on getting it between the idler wheels and the hub first. Make sure the lower wheel is pulled forward. I Used a small box and some cardboard to hold the drum at the right height while I put the belt back on although if you have some extra hands available now would be a good time to get them. Then having put the front panel within reach I pulled out the box and replaced the panel, lowered the top and replaced the screws, spun it by hand then tried it with power. All is good. Time about 45 min.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

To be short and sweet, the repair was simple once I got the parts I ordered which came really quick. I put them on and it worked fine. Ez to install as well. It only takes half the time to dry, it seems to work better than when it was new. I saved hundreds. The repair man was going to charge $69.99 just to come out to see what the problem was. The parts I needed were under $100 so figured I'd try an do it myself, after reading others repair stories. I did it! I will be a repeat customers if something else breaks down. Thanks Partselect.

Pulled out old filter...pushed in new one

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.