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Sensor went out after fire in oven fault code 1b11
I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
Inner glass pane broke during self-cleaning operation
I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
I tryed to remove the sensor from the oven by removing the screws inside the oven. Unfortunatly, the plug for the sensor would not reach the inside of the oven. I had to remove the oven from the wall and remove the back cover to ac3ess the sensor wiring. After that it was a snap.
Shattered inside glass when attempted to self-clean
Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.
Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!
Door fell off so removal of door was easy. Removed screws holding the door together to expose hinges. Removed old hinges that were 3 screws for each hinge. Placed new hinges and installed screws then put door halves back together installed screws and then finally replaced door onto the stove. Mission accomplished
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
