First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.
Replacement cook-top, had natural gas orifices, needed propane
Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.
stove top burner ignition spark progressively got weaker and then stopped on all but one burner.
I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!
This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.
Ignitor burned out and would not allow oven to heat
This oven is from 1993 and a lot less complicated than today's models probably are. The first things to do are to remove the oven door and broiler pan. On this model, the oven door simply lifts off the hinges. Once these are gone, you want to remove the oven floor. To remove, locate the two screws at the back of the floor. After removing, lift the floor up and towards the back to pull the floor tongue out of the groove in the front. This will expose the gas jet and ignitor assembly. At the front of the jet pipe is a screw that holds the pipe to the front center of the frame - it is underneath so you may have to bend over to see it, it can be felt easily as well. Remove this screw, this will allow the pipe to be moved a little later. In front of the assembly is a vertical metal plate with a screw at the right of the mounting the plate into the broiler floor. Remove the screw and slide the plate to the left to pull out another tongue/groove set-up. Now you should see the wires completely and the connection to the air-flow adjuster. There is a small screw in the front of this brass fitting, it does not need to be touched. Turn the burner pipe clockwise while lifting and this should pop the assembly up. The ignitor is mounted to the burner pipe by 2 screws that are found on the bottom of the mount. Remove the 2 screws, this will allow the ignitor to hang free. Be sure to pay attention to what wire attaches to what wire, I marked the left wire so that I knew which to reconnect to after the change over. Remove the caps on the wires if this unit has been removed before, if not then mark the wires on both the replacement unit and the original wires. My ignitor has been replaced before, so I used my wire cutter to clean-up the ends of the old connection before reconnecting the new replacement. At this point, you should be able to fire-up the oven, it might take a moment for the new one to warm up, so give about 30-40 seconds. If the oven fires up, it's then working to put everything into place in reverse order. I like to line up the parts and pieces as I remove so I can just put back in reverse.
I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.
layed the range on its side and removed the gas valve installed the new valve leak checked and tested works like new. Great service and parts availability, shipping was fast.
Oven igniter failed; electrode has been spotty for years.
STOVE Much easier to perform than expected. First, pull the plug. Second, lift door off hinges and remove bottom storage door. Then remove bottom tray (2 thumbscrews) and the head spreader below that (1 screw). Now disattach the two wire nuts that attach the igniter to electric (from bottom, where door was). I guess this has been changed once. If it had not been, might have had to cut these lines. Then, back inside the stove, remove the flame delivery tube or whatever it's called. It kind of twists as it pulls up. From there, it's easy to disattach the igniter with a wrench and then reassemble all in reverse order. Hardest part was getting one of the wire nuts to take. One of the replacement ones just did not grab, so reused one of the preexisting. OVEN Only hard part was getting the stovetop to release. Take off all the burner guards and such. Then lift the top slightly to locate the two push clips. Push each back in turn with a screwdriver, and this releases the stovetop, which rises up until it rests on two rests. Piece of cake to remove th electrode and attach new one. All working fine!
Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.
1. Removed oven door. 2. Removed shelves. 3. Removed oven bottom. 4. Removed pan drawer. 5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening. 6. Removed top burner nut. 7. Pulled igniter out from top. 8. Snipped igniter wires. 9. Removed igniter from burner 10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts. 11. Attached new igniter to burner. 12. Replaced burner. 13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer. 14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer. 15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner 16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.
Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.
