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Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
The repair in my situation is very easy and simple. Just push new control knob into the valve and it's done. I am pleased with my order and I received it sooner than I expected.
Unscrew the metal rim and remove the glass window. Remove the old bulb by twesting the bulb towards you. Place the new bulb's pins into the slots and twest away from you. Place the metal rims back in place and screw them down.
The oven was not igniting. The heating element was not turning red hot.
First, I pulled out the two lower drawers to access the gas shut off valve. Turned it off by using adjustable wrench and turning counter-clockwise. Then I removed the old igniter - and pulled the two wires and twist caps thru the back hole. it had continuity, but it was 220 ohms. Google research said if the resistance is too high, not enough current will flow to flip the safety valve and/or heat the heating element.
Order the replacement. When I unboxed it, I measured the resistance at 176 ohms. I thought that was a bit high. Installed it anyway, and after turning on the gas at the shut off valve, I turned on the oven. I immediately heard a snap/pop - and found the heating element had broken. I called PartSelect - and they immediately sent me another one - giving me a refund for the first one to cancel out the charge, then charging me anew for the second one.
The second one measured resistance at 68 ohms. That was much better - since resistance in igniters increase with age - 68 is good compared to 220 ohms. Needless to say - re-installed, and it worked like a charm.
Tip - you can remove the oven doors. Each door hinge has a latch. Flip them up. Door lifts straight out. Made the job so much easier.
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
The switch for the stovetop fluorescent light failed.
It took only ten minutes to locate the correct replacement switch for my 20+ year old GE range on the PartSelect website, and only two days for it to arrive at my home. After removing the rear panel behind the control module, it became apparent that there were clips on each side that held the glass front panel in place. I removed the screws for each clip and the thumbscrews on the two front-mounted switches, and the glass panel came free easily. Wiring for the new switch was simple plug-and-play (4 leads), and reassembly was a snap. I was VERY careful with the glass front panel, which is NLA as a replacement part.
Pulled the knob's off the front of the stove. Removed 7 phillps screws holding on the front plate, pulled off the front plate, removed the ignitenr, and then reassembed the stove. It worked great.
