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Oven would not light
Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.
1. Removed oven door. 2. Removed shelves. 3. Removed oven bottom. 4. Removed pan drawer. 5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening. 6. Removed top burner nut. 7. Pulled igniter out from top. 8. Snipped igniter wires. 9. Removed igniter from burner 10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts. 11. Attached new igniter to burner. 12. Replaced burner. 13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer. 14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer. 15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner 16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.
Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked open!)
The trim piece on the bottom of the door was rusted making the unit look really dirty and used.
It was pretty simple. Just remove the door as the bottom piece holds all the parts together. Place on table top and remove old trim. Install new trim and install door. The only difficult part was the trim had a space for the glass door front. I opened up the space so that the glass would seat easier. Went together real easy. Stove looks like it's brand new.
no problems it was very easy the parts were a perfect match
first you have close the main gas line, then you remove the nut in the center of each burner then you have to push in the two tabs located in the front part of the stove. one on each side of the out side burners. then you lift the top of the stove. then you will need a wrench to loosen the nuts on the tub. then you have to line up the new ones. put the stove top back on then you have to put the nuts on each burner then you can test for gas leaks
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
First replaced temperature sensor following YouTube instructions.
Then removed upper back panel to expose the control board. Removed the screws holding the control board, but DID NOT disconnect the wires. Moved the old control board up over the top of the range to let it rest on the stove top.
Fit the new overlay on the new control board. There are edges on the bottom and one side of the control board that makes aligning it easy.
Then ONE AT A TIME, starting with the largest connector on the end of the board, disconnected a lead and reconnected to the new board. NOTE: THE CONNECTORS ON THE NEW BOARD ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS THAN ON THE OLD! But if you look closely, they are all labeled. Simply find the same label on the new board and connect the lead from that connector on the old board. Making the right connections is NOT a problem. And there are connectors on the new board that are NOT USED! A note in the packaging warns of this.
Remounted the control board, replaced the back panel, and plugged the range back in. The new control board flashed all the LEDs and the clock started blinking. Set the clock. Turned the oven on and confirmed that it lit, cycled on and off during preheat, and beeped when it came out of preheat.
Since this was a new sensor and a new control board, I used my DMV and thermocouple to check the min/max temp during the heating cycle. Had to calibrate the temp down 5 degrees. Instructions for doing this are on the web and in the owners manual. It is easy.
Finally, did the GE Biscuit Test (Google it) and the biscuits were a bit under baked at the minimum time and a bit over baked at the maximum time. Perfect!
Everything fit, everything worked, took about 45 minutes start to finish. Wife is happy and I'm getting baked goodies again!
Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.
