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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
Deflector oven/gas flame deflector replaced due to hole melted from glowbar igniter
Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.
Slide out oven door. Remove handle screw and handle. Pick up white insulation. Remove screws to the door gasket. Replace new Door Gasket. It had to te streched to fit. I wish that the new door gasket would be 2 in. longer so it would be easier to install.
Turned off gas and unplugged unit. Removed back nuts/screws from range. Took pictures of the wiring in place as a reference. Unscrewed old control board. Held new control board next to old board and plugged wiring into new board. Used the pictures as a reference when needed. Screwed the new board back into place and replaced the back panel on the range. Super easy repair and saved so much money in the cost of the part and all of the labor charges.
You first must remove the burners on the cooktop to gain access. They are secured with 2 Torx screws which are accesiable after removing the burner covers. The igniters wires must also be removed which simply are push on connections. The cooktop must be removed by inserting a scredriver on each corner of the cooktop from the front. They simply push in and the entire top lifts off. Remove 4 screws covering an access panel located in the front of the cooktop to gain access to the motor/latch, which is secured by two screws accessiable from opening the oven door just below the latch. Replace motor/latch and reassemble. Carefull with the wiring as the replacment switch has been changes. The wires on the left switch of the old assembly get connected to right switch on the new assembly, and the right side wires on the old get connected to left side on the new. Reassemble and Viola!
Installation was very quick and simple. Removed wire connector for the igniter then hex screws for the bake tube. Attached the new igniter to the new bake tube and reinstalled in oven. 15 mins. I took the extra time to clean the oven pan and heat shields. Removed old charred baking spills and grease buildup. Oven is 12 years old and working like brand new.
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
Wall oven: light flickered or did not work in a loose poreclain socket.
Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!
