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Only one burner sparking on range.
Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.
The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.
Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel 2) Slide out Range from wall 3) Unplug Range 4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket 5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb 6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard. 7) Place new socket into mounting flange 8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back. 9) Screw in new light bulb from front 10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place 11) Replace back panel 11) Plug in range 12) Slide range back to original position 13) Turn on power Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
Replaced igniter pins but no joy, needed igniter module
Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.
Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!
18 year old gas range, just replaced oven igniter, and tried repairing burner igniter
I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.
burner had hot spots where the matieral melted some cause a distorted flame that would spit sputter
Remove the top grate and remove the top burner plate and then pull the burner out and remove the torx screw and adapter install onto the new burner and place back on the stove , good to go.
Hard to remove screws & no instructions that a heat shield had to be transferred from old to new
One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !
