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Element Broke
Piece of cake! Took more time to find the screwdriver than it did to replace the element! Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story. The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance win and so did I. Oven now works great
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
Opened the box and removed the rack!! It's well-made, though not perfectly flat. But it works well in the convection cycle of the Jenn-Air which has a "drying" mode within the cycle. I've done basil and chives so far. The dealer from whom I bought the dual-fuel downdraft range did not mention the rack as an option. I found out about it through the range's manual. Great, quick service from PartSelect.
1)Turn off breaker to range 1.1)Disconnect the downdraft vent blower 2)Remove Range from Counter area (delicate procedure) Caution do not stress (Lift with or pull on) the cook-top 3)Remove Ceramic cook-top from base (hidden fasteners-remove the vert trim at front of range - it hides two fasteners) 4)Remove old elements 5)Rebuild the supplied elements (multiple options, copy the old element layout before disassembling- tricky) 6)Swap-out replacement elements (replacement elements were assembled slightly differently in the new style elements so wiring was slightly different) 7)Re-assemble Ceramic cook-top 8)Re-mount to base (needs assistant to support ceramic while reconnecting cable harness connector) 8) Re-set range into counter (Ceramic cook-top is very delicate, so extreme care is required to prevent damage)
Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
glass pane was cracked during the cleaning process
needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00 Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine. Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.
the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.
Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.
After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.
Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
I turned off the range breaker and doubled checked to make sure the power was off . Using 1/4" ratchet wrench I removed 2 sheet metal screws and lifted the glass top up and held it in up with a small cardboard bow. I removed 2 more screws holding the element in place and installed new unit. I then
