Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Replace interior bulb
Pretty simple but required buying a set of security bits (#68549) from Harbor Freight for $7.00 to remove the outer cover of my GE JES2051SNSS microwave. At first glance I thought the cover would remove by going towards the front of the microwave, but it ended up just needing a tug to the rear. I like this site because they have pictures of the exploded appliances that show what your getting into.
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.
Arcing had caused burned turntable and melted connection to sec. motor.
Note: also had to replace turntable. Removed top cover using secure driver set. Placed microwave on it's front, using a soft towel. Removed edge screws from bottom plate (leaving 4 screws in center attached to heavy transformer). Separated bottom plate from body of microwave (leaving transformer wires still attached) exposing Synchronous motor. Removed two screws holding motor and electrical plug. Swapped new motor in its place. Re-attached bottom plate with its screws. Placed microwave onto it normal position. Re-attached top cover with its secure screws. Installed new turntable inside.
Opened door to get food put more food in closed door it wouldnt work
Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill. My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.
Removed cover discharged the capacitor and looked around for obvious signs of component failure. Then began testing switches and sensors finding flame sensor closed. Did a bypass and all cylinders fired. Part needed no longer available. Located your part with almost exact working values and installed it. Hopefully will get another 12+ years of service. I have used you folks in the past and will in the future. Thanks
Microwave was accidentally overheated and all power was lost.
Since I didn't know if it was the current fuse or the flame sensor, I ordered both parts, and, I had to order the tamper proof torx bits needed to remove the microwave cover ($7.45 on Amazon). Once the cover was off the unit, both parts were easily accessible on top of the oven and were replaced in only a couple of minutes.
When the MW door was opened a fan would start running. Close the door the fan would go off.
Removed the MW from the wall. Took the top screws off the air vent. Then removed the two screws holding on the display. I then moved the display to its side and it revealed the micro switches. I removed the plug in leads from the micro switch one at a time. I did this with all three micro switches only one at a time. I reinstalled everything and plugged it in. No more fans starting when the door is opened.
Would not heat and made a buzzing or popping sound
Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!
Turned the microwave on its side. (Recommend turning it on its top. i had to fish the wire connection back to the center after it dropped away from the motor.) There is a spot under the rotation motor where an access port was stamped in the tin but not cut out. Used the small side cutter to complete the cut where tin had been left between holes. I unplugged the wires, removed the old motor by removing one screw, and installed the new one by reusing the same screw. The motor must have a reduction gear inside the case. The motor coil tested good, about 128 ohms, but it acted like there was a stripped gear inside. I wasn't interested enough to try to open the motor and confirm.
Had to go to the garage and get a small sheet metal screw to close the new trap door.
The "new" motor had scratches on it, made me wonder if it was really new, but it works fine and will probably outlast me.
unplug oven from power remove glass turntable remove cabinet housing remove burnt out bulb order correct part reinstall new bulb reattach cabinet housing install glass turntable plug into power outlet confirm light bulb on
