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Halogen oven light burned out. When trying to remove old bulb, it broke off.
First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.
The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.
Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!
The thry was rusty I took the door out And i slide out the thry it's take five minutes I did it by myself now my oven Look like a new I'm so happy now I get the part quickly thank you
Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.
RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch). Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper). Remove the racks (wire shelves). Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven.. Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element. Now reverse the process. Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off. Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws. Replace the wire racks (shelves). Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper). Turn the power back on. Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly. voila!
Turned power off to oven Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4) Pulled Broiler out from back of stove Disconnected wires Reconnected wire Remounted broiler and replaced bolts Turned power back on
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported. - works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Broke the glass on our oven door due to cold water spilled while it was hot
First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together. When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
Light bulb went out,could not find replacement part.
Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.