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JB940KD1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB940KD1CC
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Twisting of stuck cook-top killed the event
The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • James from Kingsville, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
Parts Used:
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • David from Lisle, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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large burner on the dual element not working
The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Alan from Medina, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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rust on outside bottom of door.
It is first necessary to remove the door from the range according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once removed, lay it down on a flat, protected surface with the outside facing down. Remove the two upper phillips screws and the hex nuts on the bottom channel. Next, separate the inside panel from the outside panel. You will then see the remaining hex nuts that have to be removed in order to replace either the bottom trim channel or the side pieces.
Parts Used:
BISQUE BOTTOM TRIM CHANEL
  • Robert from Brighton, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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F2 error code
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • jud from gatesville, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
Parts Used:
NUT
  • Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Oven slow to heat up
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Joe from Harkers Is., NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Plastic slide for storage drawer broken.
Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.
Parts Used:
REAR SUPPORT
  • James from Stuart, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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F2 reading
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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missing meat thermistor
plug in thermistor when needed
Parts Used:
Meat Probe Thermistor
  • John R from Asheville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Kenneth from Salem, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
Parts Used:
REAR SUPPORT
  • Robert from Woodinville, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the JB940KD1CC
121 - 135 of 147