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Burner wouldn’t turn off.
Removed control knob. Removed back panel (3) screws with a nut driver. Removed two screws holding the burner switch. Followed the wiring exactly the way it was on the bad burner switch. Don’t forget to take a picture of the wiring before you start in case you get lost. Took about five minutes to change the switch. My wife is very happy with her operational front burner.
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then I disconnected the two wires and pulled the element out. I ordered the part and received it within two days. It was very easy to install. My oven was tunning in less than half an hour.
Bottom element burned up and it was a little scary. Never seen this happen.
Un plug the power first.
Took the old element out and removed two nut holding the element in place. Remved back access panel on the back bottom of the unit. Disconnected wiring to part pulling the clip off of the connector.
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
One of the electric range heaters could no longer be controlled. It heated up for no reason.
Pulled the range away from the wall. Took two screws off of top cover with 1/8th socket wrench. Took small Philips head screw off the top, just leaned the cover away from the top. It still held in slots at its bottom so no need to drop it away from the range. Removed the dial from the front exposing two small Philips head screws. Removed screws, and pulled the comptroller away from the rear of the range. Held the new one in the same position as the old one and removed one connection at a time, and replaced them into the new part. Did everything in reverse to put it all back together. Believe me, easy as could be and you just saved $200 repair man cost. Part matched old part exactly.
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door. - place door on work surface with the outside facing down. - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top. - Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside. - There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside. - Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed. - Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding. - Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window. - Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom) - Set the new window in its place. - Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane. - Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door. - Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom. - Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door. All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.
Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.
