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Oven not getting hot to preset temp
First turn off breakers. Undo all screws and remove burner. Easy to see how to replace old part with new. Self explanatory if you follow what you have taken apart.
The repair was very eash. The replacement element fit perfectly and only involved removing two screws, pulling the old element out far enought from the bak of the oven to disconnect the wires held by two screws . Disconnecting the two wires and installing the new element. This is a 25 year old appliance and is back to working like new. One note, be sure to shut the power off to the range because one of the wires connected to the element remains HOT! even if the oven is not on.
The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.
Turned off the breaker to the range. Turned on range to ensure no electricity was currently flowing to the range. Turned the range off and unscrewed the tilt lock hinge. Pulled the burner out to expose the wires. Popped the snap locks off the cover box and unscrewed the wires connected to the posts. Followed recommend directions to expose approx. 1/2" of new wire (this is what I used the knife for since I did not have a wire stripper available). Slightly cut thumb in the process (no blood, though). Removed old burner. Put new burner in place, re-attached wires to the posts and screwed in to place. Placed cover box back in place and secured using new snap locks. Attached tilt lock hinge using new screw that was provided. Turned breaker back on and turned on range. new burner worked great. Took about 20 minutes total. Wife was extremely impressed, mostly that I didn't electrocute myself. She now wants me to replace other three burners. No good deed goes unpunished.
I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.
First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.
slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.
From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!
Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.
Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!
R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Plastic Insert for knob to long, had to use my bench grinder to cut it down
(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.
Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.