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Open the freezer panel which attached with screwws and locate the defrost thermmostate behind the back pannel. Cut off the old thermostat wires and connect the new wires.
I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Remove rear access cover. Remove 2 screws on fan motor bracket. Remove fan blade. Unplug harness. Insert new motor in reverse order. Literally took less than ten minutes. Plugged the fridge back in and quiet as a mouse... perfect replacement part.
got on part select web site and found other customers that had same problem and on their site they had comments from them to fix problem. I then took off back panel on frig where compressor is by removing 6 screws and found the relay attached to the compressor then pressing down on holding spring removed 2 wire alligator clips and it was bad ordered one from part select put the new one on an frig was fixed. entire fix took about 30 minutes from isolating problem to fixing it. thank you part select
My fridge kept making a high pitched noise towards the bottom back. The food had also started thawing out.
I followed the instructions provided on the video emailed to me. I had some trouble only because my refrigerator was slightly different and it was hard to get the old condenser fan motor out. Other than that I was super pleased to have found Partselect.com. There is no way I would have been able to tackle such a major job without their step-by-step detailed help. I am enormously grateful to them. They shipped my parts the next day which is evidence of their sincere concern and understanding of the urgency of my problem. I can surely say they saved me many hundreds of dollars!
We noticed the wall between the doors was quite hot. It is a side door refrigerator. Thank God we weren't gone on vacation, this could have caused our home to catch on fire!
Husband did the installation. Said it was easy and he had no problems with the repair. He's great at various do it yourself repairs.
Checked water inlet tube inside freezer, stuck screwdriver in it to see if there was any ice and it seemed clear. Checked water pressure to fill valve, good pressure. Replaced fill valve, still no water to ice maker. Replaced Ice Maker. Still no water to Ice Maker. Removed freezer back panel, hit fill tube with heat gun after allowing freezer to defrost awhile, replaced back panel, ice maker. Water going to icemaker fine. Problem was that the fill tube was frozen up way at the back where the water line emptys into the icemaker fill tube. Old icemaker and fill valve were probably OK. No real way to check it from outside the case in the rear of the fridge as the water line is sealed on the fill tube and heating it without removing the rear freezer panel does not get back far enough to melt the ice.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
