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I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.
The fridge was too warm while the freezer was cold
First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.
My frige was leaking alot of water inside and out, and was frozen all my food and everythig.
I just removed icemaker, bottom and back panel cover, remove the old thermostat, cut the wires, connect the new one and replace all covers and ice maker.So far is working perfect, no more water mess inside or on the floor, and my food is not frozen anymore, thanks a lot for your help and your trouble shooting help me to figerout what was wrong, thanks again for save me a lot of money
Freezer froze up and water in ice and water in bottom of refrigerator
Had to take everything out and defrost the whole refrigerator dry up and than took back off at bottom and the one covering the Bimetal. The hole was plugged so we took the compressor and blew it and finally got all the ice out before we put on the Bimetal. This is the 4th time we fixed this and I don't know why it won't last longer than 8/9 months. The warrenty is for a year and so far I have gotten 2 refunds thank you!
The kickplate grille is a plastic part which has two metal clips attached to it. The old plastic frame had broken free of the metal clips and fallen off the refrigerator. Step One: Removed the two old clips by pulling them out of the refrigerator frame. Did it with finger pressure. 2. Pressed the new part which has clips attached to it into the holes in which the old clips had been placed. Voila, the repair was finished.
Gasket needed to be replaced on both freezer and fridge doors
I did not remove te freezer door but did take off the fridge door. Removed all the screws- (way too many ),removed the old gasket and replaced. The job did not take long to do but was very tedious.
Pulled up part select video on u-tube. Followed instructions on dissambly of top freezer and found condensor freezing up blocking air from refrigerator. Checked timer to make sure it was good. Next checked continuity on heater to make sure it was good. Last checked bi-metal thermostat for continuity while cold. Found Bi-metal part to be defective (also rubber in top of was popped up which is a sign of a bad part). Simply ordered new part from Part Select, received in 2 days and replaced Bi-metal and melted ice with hair dryer and reassembled freezer. While waiting on part you can still use refrigerator by melting ice so air can get to refrigerator. I put a towel in bottom of freezer to catch water. Greg W. in Ga.
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
Freezer Extremely Cold, Refrigerator Warm, Water Accumulating In Refrigerator.
After watching the video it was a snap. Defrosting the freezer took the longest time. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Once the freezer compartment was clear of ice the removal and installation were a step by step procedure which the video showed in detail. It's been about a week since I installed the bimetal defrost thermostat and it seems to be working like new. Sure glad I researched this problem on the internet instead of calling a very expensive repairman! Thanks partselect. Com!!!
