the icemaker make the noise, but wouldn't produce ice. When we took the ice tray off, we saw that the metal piece that turned the ice crusher was broken.
I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!
Freezer Temp was -20 to -30 degrees F. and did not defrost because of the extreme low temperatures.
The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.
Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it. Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.
The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet. Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.
Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.
I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ. The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
Part went bad the freezer was freezing up and refrigerator not getting cold
I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.
