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I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze
Gas range would not go into self cleaning mode. When pushing the self clean button, would get three beeps!
The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.
The Parts Came With No Instructions And We Couldn't Find Directions On Line.
We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.
Open oven door and remove racks. Remove 2 screws at back of oven floor and remove bottom plate. Unscrew screws that hold flame defuser. Remove defuser. Remove screws that hold bake igniter and flame tube. Unplug wire to bake igniter. Remove screws to bake igniter. Replace old igniter with new igniter. Replace screws and wire to igniter. Replace flame defuser and put screws back. Put bottom plate back into oven. Replace 2 screws at back. Replace racks. close door and test by setting thermostat to some temperature and verify that oven works.
Ignater would ignate the first time, but then after the oven went off the ignater would not re-ignate and the ove would rmain off
The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.
Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.
Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.
Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.
Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.
Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.
Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.
The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.
Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.
Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.
Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.
This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!
Trim piece on the botom of the oven was chipped in three places
I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.
Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.
I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.
oven would not light but broiler and range top would. removed oven racks. removed 2 finger tight screws on oven pan floor and pulled up oven floor. also removed storage drawer under oven- also 2 screws. now your oven should look like the inside of your gas grill. removed 2 more screws on burner plate and removed plate. unplugged igniter and 2 screws holding igniter. replaced igniter and put together in reverse order. oven now works perfectly
