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Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape. 1. Shut off water supply. 2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.) 3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.) 4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve. 5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid. 6. Remounted assembly to the frame. 7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply) (8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter. (9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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No water to dish washer
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.
The spray arm comes off into 3 parts but is really only supposed to be one. I removed the nut from the old assembly and attempted to place the new assembly on by hand. The new nut seemed to be slightly smaller than the original so it would not attach to the dishwasher. Using a kitchen knife, I removed the new nut from the arm unit and attached the new arm to the original nut and it went back on easily. The connection of the new arm to the new nut was 3 tabs that needed to be depressed with the knife and was a different conection method than the assembly that kept coming off in the wash cycle. The replacement part had a much better design than the original.
One of the springs was broken, The door would not open or close properly. There was also a leak coming from the front of the dishwasher.
I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy. Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak. The dishwasher is running as good as new. I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning, I highly recommend ordering from this site.
Discovered upper wash arm had come off. It looked like it was repairable, but the bushing/clip holding the arm came off after one wash. Looked on line and reviewed part and saw it was a one piece assembly from photos. Removed old assembly by unscrewing from top of washer and screwed new assembly in place.
Removed the bottom panel on the unit (2 screws hold it on) and pulled the dishwasher out about 4"--after turning off electricity to the unit. Removed the broken spring and the old linkage and replaced them with the new parts. Pushed the diswasher back into place, and replaced the bottom panel. Turned on the electricity and the diswasher door is "good as new." This is quite simple to do; just takes patience.
Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.