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After using self cleaning feature oven wouldn't heat
I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't put any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.
Unplugged old element unit and plugged in new element. Took two needle nose pliers and a flexible body. Took about 5 minutes. Works fine. Anybody can do it. Make sure power is off at the box.
Limit Thermostat had burned out due to high temp of self cleaning mode
1) Removed the trim pieces (2 screws). 2) removed the 2 screws holding the oven in the wall. 3) Slid the oven out of the wall cabinet 4) removed the back panel of the oven ( 10 screws. 5.) removed the old thermostat (2 nuts) 6.). Installed the new thermostat and reversed steps 4-1
The video gave me the confidence to order the part
The tech said he used No 2 Phillip's. Once I took the door off and removed the racks I quickly learned a Phillips was not going to work. I am now the proud owner of a Kobslt star and square ratchet screwdriver.
Opened overn door and inserted allen wrenchs through the holes in the door hinges. Close the door until it makes contact with the allen wrenchs, then grasp the oven door handle and the bottom of the oven door and lift up to remove the door. Place the door on a flat surface,(I used a bed) and remove the screws to gain access to the glass. Upon re-assesbly, leave door flat line up and re-install all screws before putting the front pannel back on. Insert door back into the oven and open, remove the allen wrenches and close the door. The process is easy and will take 30 minutes to an hour and save you a $100.00 service call!
The lower door of my double oven would not stay closed. The light was always on, and I had spent a year doing embarassing things like trying to tape or velcro it shut.
Several professional appliance repair people told me I had to get a new oven (double, no less!) because "they don't make that hinge anymore." That would have been a $4-5K investment to replace two ovens that both work fine. I'm not generally a DIY person, but was inspired by a FB page I follow called "Handy Women." I got the model number out of my oven, googled "replacement hinge for ____," and found it on this site right away. $120 and about 1 week later I had my hinges. I found this video in the comments on this website that shows (without narration) exactly how to change the hinges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzQuU2gZYhk The only mistake I made that cost me some time had to do with the little pins you have to put into the hinge to remove and replace the oven door. They were missing from the old hinges, and it didn't occur to me to use the ones that were in the new hinges (hadn't unboxed when I started.) I used threaded bolts that were the right diameter and length. They slid right in, but then when I went to take them out, it was an ordeal with WD-40 and an Allen wrench. Then it still didn't occur to me to look at the new ones, so I went to the hardware store and bought two more things the right size without threads. Of course when I took the new hinges out of the boxes they already had the little pins in them. Annoying and time consuming rookie mistake, but my oven door now closes just fine, and I'm getting a ridiculous amount of satisfaction from my little repair job!
The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).
Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)
We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.
We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!
This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.
BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.
Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear. Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Read the instructions in installation manual to remove door. Kept removing screws. Was surprised to find two panes of glass between the inner glass and the outer glass. Cleaned all the glass (4) and the inside of the door. Looks brand new. Be careful with the insulation; be sure it is pushed back or it will show from the outside.