The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay. The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord, I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor. Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.
Bad switch for door prevented interior light from coming on
Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH
The center peice was the hardest part to take out. Had to be very careful to not break plastic. Also the two front slides where just as bad. to much plastic and to me its totally junk plastic. The drawers ride on these plastic guides and the are very thin. Also, NO supoprt in the center like the older models. The drawers sag in the center.
Removed broken part from refrigerator. Removed 2 plastic parts and tempered glass shelf and installed on new part. Change out went OK. A few tools and some patience
Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks
Replaced thermodisk (Fuse-M). Did not solve the problem. Found Burn Mark on Mother board. Replaced Motherboard. Freezer still frozen. Waited 17 hours never defrosted. After 17 hours defrosted freezer and now waiting to see what the refrigerator is going to do about defrosting. There is continunity through the thermodisk and the defrost coil.
The seal was replaced but the unit has not improved. Troubleshooting - the heater unit on the coil at the freezer was checked; OK, But; there is a little ice build up on the upper area of the condenser. The compressor is running, the lower aft section of the fan and coils is clean and operating. Changed sensors on the freezer and upper fridge compartment. Still no help. May just purchase another refrigerator..:(
Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.
coils were icing up and refrigerator section was warm freezer was cold
Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.
