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Fridge not cooling
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.
A very simple repair. The end caps pop out easily with maybe a little help from a screwdriver blade on the underside and the new ones snap into place after assembling the end caps and the rail as a unit. The OEM end caps have a small design flaw which allow them to loosen over time. This flaw is corrected by the replacements from you folks. The real success story is how quick you responded to provide the parts even though this was not a major outage. Great service folks!
Freezer was freezing but refridgerator was warm. Checked fan and it was not turning.
Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
The rack was broken and the meat drawer would fall down when pulled out. Had to use one hand to steady drawer while selecting meat/cheese.
Just like the very helpful video. Took the drawer out. Lifted the glass cover out. Took 2 screws out and extracted broken rail. Placed the new rail in with 2 screws. Voila! Easy-peasy.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works
The original support was broken, tried epoxy and it only held for a few months before breaking again
All I had to do was remove the original support that was on the inside wall of the refrigerator, which I had to use pliers since there were broken pieces, and then I just snapped the new one into the three holes provided for this support. The crisper drawer works fine now. It literally only took about 1 minute.
