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Aged parts broken
After sitting in a cold refrigerator for year after year, plastic becomes brittle and breaks. This is what started happening to my shelves and door bins. The problem a lot of times is getting the right part since some of the parts do not have numbers.
This website gives a accurate description and best of all photos on an inch grid, so I can measure what I have and find what I need. This time everything was perfect and fit easily. took no time and just like that I have almost double the space again. Funny how that works. Once before I didn't get the right piece so just pay attention to the dimensions.
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.
water from refigerator dispenser started tasting bad
I removed the top shelf in the fridge. I then unscrewed the cover to the water filter and pulled the filter cartridge down into the cover. Keep the cover upright as there may be some water in it. I carried it to the sink. I took the new cartridge and ran water through it from the sink, then set it in the cover and took it to the fridge. I pushed the cartridge up into the space that I removed the old one from and screwed the cover back on. Then I took an empty pitcher and filled it from the water dispenser in the fridge door. I did this three times to charge the filter and remove charcoal dust. Water tastes great now. I ordered two filters so I would ony have to buy once a year. Great site to order the filters from. Cheaper than other sources and delivery was quick.
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle. A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.
Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!
Door was making a popping sound when opened and closed
Unscrewd the top hinge cove and removed two bolts from the hinge, lifted door off of the bottom hinge and laid the whole door on the floor using a beach towel to protect it from scratches. Unbolted the bottom hinge plate, replaced it with the new one. Then pulled out the old hinge bearing and replaced with a new one. Installed the door back on the bottom hinge while the magnet on the door strip held it place and rebolted the the upper hinge and reinstalled the hinge cover. All done in less than 10 minutes. No more popping sounds when I open and close the door!
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.
It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only problem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack
bottom of fridg. would not get cool. Temp was 50-60degrees. The freezer compartment worked so I knew it was not the compressor.
I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)