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my shelf supports broke
I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.
upper storage drawer broke at the edges on the rail slide
Pulled the upper drawer out, slid the faceplate/handle up and out of the channel in the drawer. Took the new drawer and slid the faceplate/handle down into the channels and it was done.
I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok. The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich. I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.
Loosened the 2 screws a little so that it would slide up and off then unplugged the wire harness. Installed the new one in reverse order and works like a champ.
it was really easy changing the ice maker. the only trouble i had was the wiring. it was very stiff and hard to route. it did not work at first but that was my fault did not have the connector plugged in all the way.since then it works great.
Excessive ice formation on cooling coils of the freezer section led me to believe that air must be finding its way into the freezer section, which led me to think that the freezer section was not adequately sealed.
Ordered gasket and gasket arrived within 48 hrs. Put the unit into out-of-commission status. Defrosted cooling coils. Dried the coils thoroughly. Reinstalled cover panel to the coils. Removed existing door gaskets. Installed new (2) gaskets. So far ice buildup to the coils had ceased.
Frequent dripping on floor and no cycling of compressor
After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
the heater defroster was bad. tested and no continuity brake in eliment.just doing a visual might have detected it but it`s hidden behind the coils.....all is working now
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
I removed the two screws and unplugged it. I then attached the pigtail to the appliance, then to the fridge. I had to push the excess wire harness into the hole in the back. It took a few minutes to move the rest of the harness out of the way by curving it upward and securing it with a nylon tie.I ordered the ice maker from Part Select on Sunday night and it arrived at 8:32 Tuesday morning, THANK YOU! I ordered very simple weed cutter parts from Sears a week ago and they haven't even shipped yet!
I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.
