Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge not cooling
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.
Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
Two of the end caps of one shelf and one of another were broken
Ordered the pairs of end caps for both the door shelves. The parts arrived the next day. Opened the wrapper slid the end caps on and attached the shelves to the door. Bingo!!! It was that Easy! Done in less than two days and less than $20. It took me some time to figure out if the parts were right though when I searched online.
Refrigerator was not cooling and the motor was running constantly
Having tried PartSelect.com before, I was very comfortable with the process. Input my symptoms and the feed back I received was that one of the 2 things (Defrost Timer or Defrost Thermostat)might need replacement. Since the cost was not much and over night shipping would cost more than the product, I decided to order both the parts. Changing parts was a breeze. The instructions posted by others on your web site were very easy to follow. You guys save me a bundle every time I have any thing going worng with any of my appliances.
Ice maker quit making cubes, instead it made a large block of ice.
Unplugged the fridge. Removed water inlet valve from fridge. Used voltmeter to test for resistance (between 50 and 150 ohms). Didn't pass the test. My original part was 218720400. I ordered part PS468507 from partselect.com. My original part had a "garden hose" coupling so PS468507 fit the bill. This part's electrical connection wasn't angled the same way as the original so we had to finagle it. Hooked the plastic refridgerator supply hose up first. Then screwed on the copper "garden hose" connection to the valve using channel lock pliers. Was careful not to over tighten. Then the fun started. The electrical connector wires were a tight fit between the copper tubing and the refridgerator frame. Did I mention that the electrical connetion wasn't angled the same as the original? My daughter got her smaller hands in there and was able to make the connection. NOTE: Because of the angling issue I was unable to screw the anchor plate to the fridge. I made sure that the valve did not interfere with the fan. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Plugged the fridge back in and in a couple of hours we had ice cubes. Works like a charm!
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
Replace the gasket around the freezer door ($122.00 NEW GASKET)
Moved the old gasket aside to gain access to retaining screws in top freezer door. The new seal in the container we received was twisted, so laid it flat and used a hair dryer (as you advised) to regain the proper shape. Did everything possible, to align the gasket. Opened the freezer door to remove the retaining screws, began to reinstall the new gasket. The top came down both sides well. Attempted to install screws across the bottom, the gasket was so twisted would not conform back into the retaining frame on the bottom of the door. Therefore, it fits poorly. No proper seal. Sincerely, Jesse & Mary(also, the bottom of the freezer door plastic form was very brittle, broke where the screws fit....so we had to make a piece formed like a strip to re-enforce the areas that 'cracked' off so as the screws could align the bottom areas.