FLSC238DS0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

My son and I did it together. I was able to copy and paste the parts diagram on your website and we were able to go step by step following that diagram.We first shut the power to the refrigerator.We then removed the tray and the pad with buttons on the exterior of the fridge. We then unsnapped the electrical plug and were able to tilt the casing that holds the actuator. We removed the old one, and snapped the new one into place.We plugged it in and then proceeded to replace everything. Voila....we now have water again, all for the price of the part...Great!!!

The part was easy to find on the site, instructions were right on and it only took 25 minutes to accomplish with just a screw driver and a pair of pliers.

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Removed Water drip tray, Then removed (3) screws holding the cover in place. Removed (3) more screws holding the circuit board in place. pulled out ribbon cable from the circuit board which is connected to cover, and put aside.
Tried to remove screws holding actuator in place, but it was a bit tight,,wish i would have tried to un-plug the connector on the left side first, but did not, i instead removed the water tube to gain better access,,,,replacing actuator was easy, re-attaching water tube was not simple at all,, but if you do end up pulling it out,,,do not waste time trying to pull it back thru, it is not nessasary, and impossible to do,,the end is tapered, and makes a pressure seal, so it will not leak,,,re-attached screws, ribbon cable, cover, and drip tray,,and done.

I followed the past suggestions and I opened the parts list to understand what was where. Caution when removing the face plate. The flat white connector pulls out easierly. It can be plugged back in after. I have big hands so it was hard to connect the water back to the unit. Other wise it went ok.
OH , make sure to unplug the refrigirator. I touch the control board and got snapped.

I removed the filter bypass from the box. I opened the refrigerator door. I put the filter bypass in the space where the filter was located. I closed the refrigerator door. I opened the freezer door. I turned on the ice maker. It worked.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!