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Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.
The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils were easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.
After a full cycle the washer would not drain the water
After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer worked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel, removed front panel. Used pliers to remove hose clamp on drain hose. Fished hose out of chassis and installed new hose. Tested for leaks.
Disconnect water and electricity. Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose. Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access. Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove. Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins. Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardware store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers). Reconnect water and electricity. Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.
Dryer would heat only on the initial start. Burner would not light again until completely cooled down. The ignitor would energize, but no gas would flow for ignition.
1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer) 2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel. 3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side 4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place. 5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
No heat, but everything else works. Ran continuity tests on everything and found gas valve solenoid coils open.
Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.
After removing the front of the washer, I used slip joint pliers for the hose clamps, then a screwdriver for the mount bolts and replaced the pump motor in reverse order. The pump was ordered on line on a Friday before 10am and was delivered on saturday moring by FedEx. I could not have expected such fast and efficent service! Great Job!!
Drying times continued to increase over several months until finally dryer wouldn't dry any more.
I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.
The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.
The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)
remove side panel & start rinse cycle & heard a grinding noise in discharge pump. used a bucket to catch water upon removeal of discharge hose to pump. unplug disconnect plug to motor, remove pump from unit. Discovered propeller was loose in housing. Googled Partselect.com, odered part & in 2 days later installed new pump on unit. Started a load of wash & it has been working perfect ever since. thanks to PartSelect.com for the service, the repair was minimal & easy for the DO IT YOURSELFER. Bill Starry
