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F10 Error. Temp sensor at 1189 room temp ohms
1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.
Second replacement of switch that disintegrated with minimum normal usage.
Removed old switch, moved the one wire to the same pin on new very cheaply made but expensive made in Mexico switch, replaced switch, pugged range back in too AC, operated new switch, created sparks and smoke. Element now glows to max immediately when turned on. Replaced stove problem gone!
Turn off circuit breaker Open oven remove two oven racks Position flash light Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element Position the new element in the bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven Replace the two oven racks Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven
Remove the lower bake element by removing the 2 retaining screws that secure the element to the inside oven back. Carefully slide the element out. There are 2 wires attached to the terminals of the element. While removing be careful to not pull the insulation out with the wiring. Attach the wires to the terminals of the new element and reinstall in reverse order.
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original. * Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer. * The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped. * So had to attend to where the wires were going. * Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45. b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions. c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it. d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s the inside-burner circuit.
The original element in the oven burned up one evening
We pulled the stove out from its slot in our island. We unplugged it and unhooked the gas line so we could get behind it easily. We then took off the back (using screwdriver) to get to the connectors for the element. We unhooked the connectors from the old element. Then we took off the plate inside the back of the oven (using screwdriver)and gently pulled the old element out. We seated the new element in the oven and then hooked it up in the back and put it all back together again. It worked perfectly! The hardest part was cleaning the dirty floor under where the oven had been for 7 years!
Bottom oven quit heating about 6 mos. ago and now top oven quit. Broiler worked fine on both. Bought 1 replacement element to try. Did not work on either oven. Found online where someone had found a bad solder joint on a relay board so I pulled the oven and removed the covers. (WITH POWER OFF. I made a diagram of the wire connections to the board and removed it. I FOUND a cold solder joint on the L2 connection of the top oven board. I found the exact same cold solder joint on the bottom oven board also. After resoldering the connections and touching up any suspect joints I replaced the boards. They BOTH WORKED fine! Anyone that can't solder can take the boards to a local radio/TV repair shop and probably get the techincian to resolder it for a minimum fee. It is certainly worth the attempt.
It's kind of embarrassing! As the breaker was being thrown to turn the current off, I discovered that the breaker box was burn up at the breakers. Short story but I got'er done! The problem now is there is something still wrong with teh oven! I think I see a new one in the future! Thank you very much for the very prompt delivery. My purchase has been without a flaw. I have already sent the part back for a refund. It cost me something like $13 for this experience for freight. I will remember you with my next need.
A friend shot out the front glass panel of my oven door with a BB gun!!
Just "locked" the hinges, pulled the door off. Removed the broken glass for the door. Switched the handle from the old door to the new one. thPut it back on e hinges.....viola!! new oven door glass!
Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.
