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new switch was not wired like old one
i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.
The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.
i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.
I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.
The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!
Very important first step: Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or disconnect the power cord. I removed the oven door to make it easier to access the back of the oven; remove two screws and the door lifts off of the brackets. Removed a screw from the top of the oven that secures one end of a wire that supports the broil element. Removed two screws that secure the broil element plate to the back of the oven. Pulled the element forward exposing the end terminals and wires. The wires are connected to the element by spade connectors. Used long nosed pliers to remove the connectors from the element. Pushed the connectors on to the new element and stuffed the ends of the element and wires back through the opening and the insulation. Reinstalled the two screws holding the element in place and the screw holding the wire in place across the top of the oven. Reinstalled the door. Took less than 30 minutes.
The temperature was irratic the entire time the stove was on. I would set it for 350 and it would go up to 425 then down to 275. It was all over the place.
It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!
I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com! Jim
I unplugged the stove for precautionary reasons. I then removed the two screws holding element in place with the correct nutdriver. I then carefully pulled out the element and pulled the two female spade connectors off. I then compared to new element and plugged the new element in. Finally I screwed in the new element and tested the oven. It worked again!! I would recommend running the oven for a bit before placing anything in to bake. this allows burn off of stuff on the new element.