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Items were not getting heated up in the microwave,
I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.
Microwave fan would come on when door open. Timer and unit would not switch on.
I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.
i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell
I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.
Unplug.Take off the external cowling from the back of the unit by removing the torx security screws. Tip: instead use a thin screwdriver blade to unscrew the torx screws, or knock out the center pins of these screws. Remove the bottom panel. The replacement motor is attached with one phillips screw, re-attach wires to motor - polarity doesn't matter. Re-assemble and you're finished.
Take off cover then the bottom. Transformer is on the bottom plate and wires won't let it come all the way off, too many wires to pull off so will have to position the bottom plate so you can get to the motor. Remove 1 screw on motor and remove motor. Install new motor connect wires replace bottom plate, replace cover. All done (hope & pray it works ok) mine worked perfect. Hope this helps.
Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.
Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.
the turntable on the microwave quit turning even though the microwave would heat up
I removed the outer cover of the microwave and removed the bottom palte to access the small motor. i unplugged the old motor from teh wiring connector, removed (1) screw and motor came out. I reversed the proceedure with the new motor and it was finished.It was a piece of cake.
The inside latch for the microwave door broke, preventing the push button from working and the door from opening.
The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.