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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten. The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete
Lip on one of two oven drawer nylon supports broke
Nylon support is attached to the oven frame with a screw having a .25 inch socket head. The screw is mounted in a recessed opening on the support, so a socket is needed. I needed to purchase a proper size socket from the hardware store for a few dollars since the smallest one I had was 7mm. I guessed at the size and was correct. Repair was easy and took a few minutes.
Deflector oven/gas flame deflector replaced due to hole melted from glowbar igniter
Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.
It was a snap. Lifted all 4 burner grates, pulled old drip pans out, installed the new ones. Perfect fit. My mother is happy-happy. thanks Parts Select.
uneven flame and sputtered, burner was not useable
Simple to correct 1. lift off grate 2. lift off burner cover 3. lift off old burner. 4. replace burner, cover and grate. took 10 seconds. burner works perfect
Forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part.
Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)
