Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer did not turn when power was on.
Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)
Remove dryer covers and locate heater assembly. Removed heater assembly and checked visually if the heater coil is opened, I verified this with an ohm meter. Heater Continuity was OK. Next step I checked the heater sensors. Thermal fuse with bracket had no ohm meter reading between two terminals[open circuit]. Order part#35001193 "thermal fuse" with bracket from "partsSelect.com." Assemble back in reverse order. Please note that the dryer heater was filled with lint and needed a good cleaning.
top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....
YouTube, YouTube, YouTube. I YouTubed many videos on how to take a dryer apart to reach the drum support roller and axle. After watching numerous videos, I settled on one that had my exact model of dryer. For my dryer, previous inputs said I needed two rollers to for my model. That is not the case. My model actually has 4 rollers, 2 in the front and two in the back. I ordered 2 initially but only needed 1 thankfully since only one roller was bad. Keep it simple stupid is how I got it done. Dryer's are pretty simple machines mechanically. Don't trash your noisy dryer. We bought ours in 2014 and it only recently started giving us issues. This is after 2 moves and being run daily for a family of 6. I'm glad I found partselect.com. They saved me a ton of money.
Well it went really well until the dryer was put back together as it still didn’t heat. The dryer was taken apart again. This time the thermistors &fuse was tested. Alas, the new fuse was faulty. After putting the car lid fuse back on n, the dryer worked again
Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.
Dryer was not producing heat due to a broken heating element.
Initially I remove the the back panel on the dryer to locate the heating element, but ,next to impossible to remove from this point due to mounting screw located on the blind side of the support bracket.
In order to get to these screw you will have to remove the top of the dryer which is secured with two 10mm screws in the rear. Then remove the control panel secured with four screws.
then I preceded to remove the front of the dryer secured with four screws on the top four screws around the door opening .I gently pull the front open and disconnect the door switch and lift up to remove. I was know able to gain better access to see the screws holding the element housing and support bracket. After removing the three screws I took a picture of the electrical connections for reference which came in handy for reconnection. The spade connectors are difficult to remove and a flat blade screwdriver works best. Once the element housing is removed from the unit its just a matter of separating the two halves of the housing to gain access to the element itself.
The element is sandwiched between the two halves of the housing and is a bit tricky to reinstall. It’s best to position the element in the upper portion of the split housing using the four securing screws and then align with the lower half . You then feed the element leads thru the receptacle and bend the securing tabs down and you are ready to reverse the take down procedure..
Belt fell off because of belt roller on the tensioner melted, ciezed and fell off
Watched a video on utube, how to repair my 16 month old steam dryer. The hardest part was laying on my belly holding the spring loaded tensioner and slipping the belt on around the blower housing. Only cost me $23. Winning!
Dryer would not start but electronics were working.
Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken. Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.
Ordered replacement wheel/arm. One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.
Dryer getting warm but turning off before clothes dry
Cleaned the sensors from inside the drum with alcohol and that did not work. Ordered two sensors. Lift top cover. Remove screws on each of the front side that secures front cover. Unplug door sensor and pull front cover towards you and lift at same time removing from frame. I own dogs and immediately noticed dog hair and surprisingly lint all over the place. Remove the screws from the lint trap. (Theres one you access from inside the drum.) Unplug your sensor wires. Remove lint trap. The sensors simply push in/out. While I was in there I removed the cover for the lint tube and cleaned it out good. Lint had started to gather around the fan. Reverse your process and your done. TIP: Keep your screws orderly as you unscrew them. If you have this problem, just a good cleaning of hair, lint, dirt may do the trick as it essentially packs around the plug of the sensors. I had already ordered my sensors so I just put them in. I took my time and cleaned good and it was about an hour. It could be done in 15-30 minutes easily.
I purchased wholesale heater element with sensors. Couple wires and bolts to attach. Trickiest part is disassembling the dryer to remove the old heating unit. You-tube it; it's gold.
NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.