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dryer was cutting off completely.
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm. I replaced it and the unit worked.
interlock switch was bad. Prevents the dishwasher form running as it "thinks" the door is still open.
Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.
I've always heard it was a simple job to replace the belt and that would solve the problem. I'd defer to others online when they suggest to replace the rear bearing - they are totally right about that suggestion. My bearing basically fell apart in my hands. Not sure if I needed a belt or not, but it's worth replacing while you are tearing the thing apart. It took way longer to tear apart than to put back together. The parts and prices from PartsSelect were perfect. The parts were received in 4 business days as they said and were perfect replacement parts.
5 minutes! loosened 4 screws pulled front off replaced bearing, felt, and slides. put everything back together, tightened screws. Worked like a NEW ONE!!!!
Switch knob and shaft broke off from using pliers.
Unplugged dryer. Removed screws from top of operating panel. Removed wires from switch. Turned switch 1/4 turn to left and removed. Replaced switch. Turned 1/4 to the right. Re-attached wires. Replaced operating panel and screws. Replaced knob. Plugged in dryer. DONE!!!!!! Easiest repair ever! Thank you.
I bought a natural gas orfice for a dryer that needed to be change from Lp gas. I was able to change the parts,it was very helpful that there was a drawing in the package showing the location of the parts that need to be changed. This was a used dryer I purchased and I did not have an owners manual to refer to. Everything went very well, Thank you.
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs) 1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door. 2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed. 3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside 4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully 5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly 6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time. 7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly. 8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas 9. Reset the idler pully into proper position. 10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms) 11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet. 12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton. 13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into place. 14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!
The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit. I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
Horrible screeching noise when the dryer drum was in motion, cracked pieces were tangling and ripping the drying clothes.
I removed the top of the dryer (unscrewed from the inside to release the top). Removed interior screws to pull open the front of the dryer. Once inside, it was really visible that the old parts (front air duct top and bottom) were in bad shape. They were cracked and broken. I removed the old pieces (they pretty much cracked and crumbled right off). I snapped in the new pieces careful to avoid damaging the electrical connections and wires. Once snapped into place (top and bottom), I careful put the front back into place making sure that the dryer drum rested on the new pieces. All screws back in place and all done! Dryer is now working as new!!!
Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !
Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.
my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX, in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by PARTSELECT......
Blower wheel shaft hole was rounded out, lamp was out
Removed two screws on dryer top and removed top, removed two screws holding front of cabinet and removed cabinet front to the side, disconnected wires to door switch, removed two bolts from motor mount bracket, pulled motor back to access blower wheel, removed old wheel and installed new one, reversed steps, unscrewed old light bulb and screwed in new one.
Had pure hell getting to drum belt and putting it back onto motor pulley and idler, cussed a little, didn't really help . replaced front of cabinet and top, did test run all worked ok.
This job was a little difficult, espicially accessing the belt and idler pulley...
The diagrams on the Parts Select web site is what made it easy for me. I could see from the diagram how the dryer was assembled. I removed the two screws holding the top on then separated the front apart from the drum. I did have to remove the panel in the back where the power connects to access the drive pulley and belt tensioner. I slid the old belt off and simply reversed the procedure for the new one. Put it back together and it runs beautifully.
I also installed a new door gasket with no tools. Now it does not leak lint from the fronf door.