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Dishwasher door was leaking at bottom.
When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out. Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered. No leaking; it worked. Thanks.
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
Replaced all 3 spray arms in less than 10 minutes.The top one came in two pieces,the mounting bracket and the arm.Snap the bracket on the dishwasher first , then attach the arm to the bracket.
I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.
I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.
Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.
So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!
Spray arm had become unattached and burned by the heat element
It was a simple as: attach and done! There is a ring on the part that tightens clockwise to the nipple that sprays out the water that it rests on. Twist clockwise and you are done! It is a mystery how it was unattached to begin with but not a problem in the end, it was easy to fix!
Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!
The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.
