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microwave would not heat
First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!
Followed the instructions on your website and a YouTube video. The diode was at a 90 degree angle which made it a little trickier. Unfortunately the repair did not resolve the problem. I ended up buying a new microwave for temporary use for less than ordering any more parts. We are pleased with your website, instructions, ease of installation though!
Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,
Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service. I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.
I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Opened door to get food put more food in closed door it wouldnt work
Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill. My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.
The part was burnt and was causing sparking inside the microwave
Removed the old canopy mica, it has tabs that slip into slots on the top of the microwave. Then installed the new part, the tabs are inserted into the same slots.
Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!
Microwave with no heat. Removed casing and checked low voltage side from the fuse through all the microswitches to the primary side of the transformer, all good. Checked HV diode good. Checked secondary side of transformer, good. Checked capacitor, good. Even though the Magnatron electrically checked out good, it had a cracked magnet. Replaced the magnatron and we have heat again!
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Microwave not turning on. All other functions operate
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor Leave unplugged overnight Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel GOOD LUCK