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Water dispenser would not shut off when you released it. It would spill water and run for ten or twelve seconds after removing glass and releasing dispenser.
Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.
First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!
Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!
pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.
Freezer not getting cold enough to freeze ice cream
I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in. The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from a website even if it seems like a sure thing
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
Ice maker inlet tube was freezing up, and eventually the icemaker overfilled and completely froze up
After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!
I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.
Background: My refrigerator was part of the class action law suit back in 2006. As a result both doors, the auger in the ice maker and a heating element in the freezer were all replaced.
Problem this time: Water was not dispensing.
Solution: Replaced the double outlet water valve in the back lower left portion of the refergerator. Water was coming into it from the water filter hose, but not coming out of it when the water dispenser in the front was engaged.
Further, I found that the coils in the back of the freezer were iced up and I therefore defrosted them with a heater. Thus, the original problem encountered with the law suit, did not get fixed by simply replacing the doors. That problem is still there. I think the defroster/heating element in the freezer is again not working.
However, I do now have water flowing again and the installation was, as others have described, very easy. Thanks for the online help.
Turn off the water. Unplug the refrigerator Take the back off of the refrigerator use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator. Pull out and disconnect electrical connections Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice. install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks. If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in. Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.
Moved refrigerator out from wall, unplugged from electric, removed plate at bottom back with 1/4 nut driver, turned incoming water valve off, disconnected water line from water valve on refrigerator, removed mounting screw, remove water lines from valve and electrical plugs, set old valve aside and replace with new valve, reconnecting water lines and electrical plugs then remount bracket, reconnect water line from source, open water valve and check for leaks, replugged refrigerator and depressed the door button to check to see if working. It worked and there was not any leaks. Replaced back plate and placed refrigerator against wall. Job completed.
Fridge keeps cycling on and off and a clicking sound happens every time compressor cycles.
I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor. Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.
Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.
My compressor stopped working and the fridge went warm.
First I was told the compressor was bad. A quick YouTube lookup diagnosed it as 1 of 3 thing. Starter relay, motherboard, or compressor. First two are cheap, compressors are not. A rattle in the relay will tell you if it’s bad. Since there wasn’t I looked to the motherboard. A burnspot indicated it was the board that was bad. Partsselect had the cheapest board at the same quality. Fast delivery and I simply plugged in the ports to install. There was a small cover with some bolts to take off but nothing intricate. Plug and play and I was up and running. Great experience with the website and no previous experience with repairs of this type.
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
