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Freezer would not stop running and had frosted over
Pretty simple, take cover off back of freezer to access thermostat, unhook thermostat and replace with new one. It had wire hookups different from original part so had to look up that information. Turned out it did not matter which wire went on which prong.
Used Phillips head screw driver to remove panel to expose old thermostat control. Took picture with phone to use and a guide. Replaced old with new and placed panel back o . Working perfectly! 30 minute max to complete.
Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.
First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer. Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer. Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires. I let coils defrost and then plugged it.
Unplug freezer. Open freezer and Remove the bottom 2 shelves and drawers. Remove 6 screws (Phillips) securing the inside access panel located in the back of the unit. Locate the defroster bar which is secured to the bottom of the condenser radiator. Trace the cable to the thermostat that is clipped into the condenser coil. Unplug thermostat power cable located at the top left of the condenser coil, and the defroster bar cable on the upper right. Release metal band that secures bar to the coil at the bottom where the coil and bar are secured. Reverse for installation.
-got friend -got step stool -removed upper hing w/3/8 nut driver -lifted door vertically off of lower hing pin (w/friend) -removed and replaced broken nylon washer -lifted door back onto lower pin hing hole -while friend holds door reinstall upper hing bracket with 3/8 nut driver -had cup of coffee
The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.
Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!
It's easy to know how to use a key. I didn't have a difficult part, I didn't have the model # because I had lost my key and the model # is inside. I was able to find the energy saving paper that came with it but it had four model #'s. I called a couple places and no could me. I pulled up Part Select on line and just thought I would give them a try. I got a very nice person (Jeremy) He went thru every model that I had and three out of the four matched so he sent me a key and if it didn't work I could get my money back. I give him a A+ four taking that extra step, unlike the other places. Very satisfied!