Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
oven would not light
New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.
The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...
Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.
We moved into a house with seemingly newer looking appliances. After the dishwasher broke and destroyed our floor, we found out that they were all twelve years old. Amazing the condition they were in after all that time.
The oven was the next thing to break. The hinge snapped, and while we could still use the oven, it allowed hot air to seep out.
So I checked online and lo and behold, I found a hinge for under $20. Wow. Much cheaper than a new range.
The most amazing thing was that I purchased it on a Friday afternoon, and it showed up on Saturday, so we could do the repair over the weekend. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with that kind of service.
We had to take off the side panel which was a pain, but all in all, it was 7-8 screws and swapping the hinge was easy. One of the screws did not want to go back in, so I had to find a replacement, but other than that, it was a pretty easy repair.
I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!
First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3
took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required. used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in. clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel tool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!
Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
The old sealed burner cap had rusted out allowing gas flame around the base of the cap.
Note the position of the electrode on the side of the old burner cap. Turn the old burner cap one-eighth turn counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Raise the burner cap and disconnect the push-on connector wires from the ground and electrode. Clean the surface and connect the electrode and ground connector wires correctly to the new burner cap and place the burner cap back in the opening, positioning the electrode at the same orientation as it was with the old burner cap. Turn the cap one-eighth turn clockwise until the burner is snug. Turn on the burner control to test that the burner functions correctly. Make sure there is no smell of propane or gas when the burner is not in use which might indicate that the burner is not properly fitted snugly.
Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!